Justin Francis Self-Portrait

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Ala Wai Harbour


On our way into the Harbour...notice the surf on our right side.

We are currently docked on the 800 dock in Ala Wai Harbour and our boat is on the market for 6 weeks. We don't really want to do the sail back but if we don't sell the boat here then we have to sail it back.While we are here we are replacing all the chain plates on the boat after we found a crack in one of them.

We are facing the break wall and have the million dollar view of the ocean and all the surfers. The harbour is located right next to the world famous Waikiki beach! Its beautiful here and the sea life is vibrant, I even saw a sea horse in the marina yesterday!

More to come with some pictures of the view.....hope everyone is well


Million dollar view


The hotels of honolulu behind us

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Honolulu

We did an overnighter from Lahain, Maui and arrived off the coast of Honolulu around 7 am on June 15th. There has been a south swell hitting the islands for the last week and as a result some fantastic surf along the southern and eastern coasts of the Islands. Entering Ala Wai Harbour in Honolulu is the most dangerous thing we have done with Steady Beat. The surf was breaking on the reef on either side of the entrance bringing some fantastic rides to the surfers but a not so cool ride for us. I was watching for any breaking waves behind us as Justin surfed our 24,000 lbs into the harbour, it was SCARY.Below is a set of pictures of a boat leaving the harbour after we entered.







On the right side of the boat in the water you can see their life raft that was ripped off the deck.

With some quick thinking of some boater in dinghies this boat did not end up on the reef.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Maui

The trip across the channel was very comfortable and the scenery of the south coast of Maui was incredible with the remnants of the lava flows. Our first stop in Maui was Onela and we anchored off a black sand beach in 30 ft of crystal clear water.

We spent one night there and set off for a Molokin'i Island, a remenet of a crater 2.5 nm from where we were anchored which offered amazing snorkling and the only chance to sail your boat into a crater. The one problem with Molokin'i is the many tourist vessels and the mooring balls that are 6 feet under the surface and require a member of crew to dive down off the boat and retrieve the mooring line. This experience was complicated with the two of us and a crew member off of Lanai kai was kind enough to dive down for us.

We then sailed up the coast to Maui to Olowalu anchorage for a night. At Olowalu we were able to experience some fantastic snorkeling which included being up close to a dozen sea turtles. They are so cool to watch as they come up to breath and then swim back down and squeeze themselves in between the coral while they snooze.

We are currently on a Lahaina Yacht Club mooring ball of the town of Lahaina. This is such a cute town (very touristy), there is a harbour where we can dock our dinghy and walk into town. The Yacht club has showers (Yippy!!!!) and is letting us stay on their mooring ball for free. We have met such nice people through the yacht club. They have even organised for us to guest dock in Honolulu so we can get the boat ready to go back to Canada. Its nice to be back among a cruising community where everyone is impressed with our travels and want to help us.

We plan to sail to Honolulu Sunday night and hopefully get what we need for the boat and find a thrid crew member. If you know someone who has sailing experience that is interested leave us a note. A 3d crew member would really reduce the load on us and we could all get a continuous 8 hours of sleep a night. Internet is hard for us to find on the islands but we will update whenever we can....Aloha.


Mountains of Maui


Charter boats crowding Molikini

Nishimura Bay

As we arrived at 7 in the morning Justin was freaking out about the water depth because he could see the bottom very clearly. I informed him we were in 56 feet!!!! What a awesome change from Mexico!!!

We anchored in a sandy spot that we could see in 30 ft of water and went to bed all day with the occasional break to watch some arrested development on DVD. That day the wind speeds started to pick up and we had 4 days of 30 Knot North East (Yay the trades, where were you when we were crossing!?) their was a small vessel advisory. The channel between the Hawaii Island and Maui is notoriously one of the worst channels in the world as the wind funnels through the two islands! We waited till they calmed down and sailed for Maui. While in this bay we enjoyed snorkeling and seeing the dolphins and the spectacular sunsets over the other Islands!


Nishimura Bay


Justin playing his new guitar

Hilo

Justin got us cleared with Customs and came back to the boat to get me before we set off to visit the Dep. Of land and Natural resources to get a permit to be anchored in Reeds bay. It closed at two so we ran up to the office right away! We paid 20$ to be there for 5 days and then we walked into the Town of Hilo.

We enjoyed an expensive celebratory dinner at Cafe Pesto, did a couple of groceries and then crawled back to the boat for a long sleep. Over the next few days we managed to do our laundry, check our e-mail briefly at an antique store, frequented Kens Pancake house ( a MUST if you visit Hilo), saw a movie in a movie theater that is a school by day and bumped into someone that we knew from Montreal.

We met Beth at a bar we went to for some live music and dinner after our movie. We invited her and her boyfriend for a day sail and BBQ aboard Steady Beat on sunday. We had a great time with them and they were able to explain a lot about Hawaii, Hilo and the volcanoes (the lava flows and the Crater).

We ended up renting a car on monday and driving up to the crater, going to buy books and dvds at Borders, groceries and finally that night to the lava flows. On tuesday morning we woke up at 5 am, rowed in (we haven't put our outboard on the dinghy yet since there is a lot of vandalism reported in Hilo) and jerry jugged 20 gallons of fuel (and after we found a public tap) and 20 gallons of water (this took two trips with the car and poor justin rowing their and back every time).

We were pleasantly surprised when we got up on Tuesday morning Muna Kea finally showed herself to us, it was magnificent! Once we returned the rental car we went for one last breakfast at, guess where........Kens Pancake house!!!! We set off after a quick nap and sailed north along the coast to a small Bay on the north west corner called Nishimura.

Forgot to mention the lovely little guitar Justin bought himself for his birthday (on June 21st). We walked into a guitar and ukulale store in Hilo one day and Justin fell in love with a taylor travel guitar with a beautiful sound. It is perfect for the boat and now wehave to get rid of the larger guitar on board


Scott and Beth out for a daysail


Dalia in front of an old crater


Crater with sulfur spewing out

Trades to Hilo Bay

So we are finally in the trades after 17 days! This morning we encountered some drizzle which is the first precipitation we have seen in 6 months. You could see the Mexico dirt streak down our rigging, I know Steady Beat enjoyed the shower.
Sailing in the trades pretty much lasted 2 days and by the end of the 17th the wind was now coming from the East and the swell coming from the North East. On Day 18 Auto wasn't doing so well at the helm and had to go into exploratory surgery again. We found a partial rip in the belt which Justin repaired by sewing a patch. This was the first of many patches that Auto needed to get us to Hilo Bay. The first patch lasted 48 hours and the subsequent patches all lasted 10-12 hours. May 22d we were not able to patch Auto again and decided to hand steer till the waves became less hazardous for Auto. On the night of the 25th Auto received another patch that lasted until Hilo Bay. This was a real relief, since neither of us enjoyed the hand steering or the three hour shifts during the day and two hour shifts at night that came with it.

On the evening of the 27th with 85 nautical miles to go we watched the sun set in the west looking out for the 13000 ft mountains that make up the “Big Island”. No such luck, only clouds but still a beautiful sunset!All day we could hear people on the vhf and we could get some FM radio stations, it was sooo exciting to hear other voices and to know we are finally close to land! That night instead of our normal watch system we decided to do 3 hour watches so as to both get a minimum of 6 hours of sleep before we arrive. We decided since the wind were dying that we would motor sail the remainder of the 55.8 nm to Hilo so as to get there at 9 am and hopefully all our customs and immigration stuff before they close. 21 nm away we could see some lights on the island, which can be argued was our first sight of land, however we didn't truly see land we got about 4 miles off the coast. There was a thick mist all over the island and we could only just make out tree shapes. We later learned that the mist is in fact Vog and it comes from the Crater on the Island also the lack of trade winds to push it away.

Our excitement was short lived once we entered the break water and tried to enter Radio Bay. We were stopped by security and asked if we had been cleared by the Coast Guard to enter. We said no and that we wanted to, could we call them on the radio. No. We need to call them in Honolulu. No cell phone onboard we are faced with the dilemma of putting the boat somewhere so we can go ashore and call but we need to call to put the boat somewhere. Since 9-11, Homeland Security has taken control of the harbours in Hawaii state (I don't know about other states) and whenever their is a cruise ship in harbour their are some serious rules about being escorted to and from your boat and not being anywhere close to the cruise ship in your vessel (we were). The security women didn't know what to do but gave us a phone number to call.

We had traveled too long and were in need of a fantastic meal to sail to Honolulu so we decided to anchor in the small bay next door which turned out to be Reeds Bay. By 11:30 we had dropped our anchor and launched the dinghy. Justin was off to do all the official paper work which means we were officially in Hawaii!


Finally some tradewinds


Land Ho!


Finally in Hilo

Cabo to the Trades

Before we left Mazatlan Mija was kind enough to ask Don to give us some weather to get to the Trades. Once leaving Cabo Don said we should head south west to N 18 degrees to catch the trades. With a large storm hitting the west coast of California the trades had headed further south and if we wanted to meet up with them we should head south too. The wind and waves picked up from the North West as we headed south making this a really rough start to our passage. We had one reef in the main and our Genoa was up, we were headed 200 Degrees True making 6.5 kts! Later that evening Justin was checking the pilot charts and he saw some small islands in the vicinity of where we were going. Without any actual charts for this area or these islands we estimated their location and decided to avoid N 19 and W 115-120. This night after I made a chickpea curry Justin promptly got sick. He caught some kind of 24 hour bug that left him weak and tired. He still came out to do his watches while I encouraged him to eat some dry cheerios. As the day grew to night on our first day off to Hawaii we took down the Genoa and put up our working jib and put in another reef in the main.

Before leaving Mazatlan we downloaded the week predictions of passageweather.com and noted that later in the week there is no wind south of B aja. So in order for us to catch the Trades we need to be as far west from Baja as we can. That proved difficult in the following 6 days with us motor sailing every night as the wind died and then increasing everyday from the North West, West direction.Sailing up-wind, not what we expected. Along with the variation in wind we often had swell from the North and North West making the boat uncomfortable.

On May 9th the wind started coming from the North East direction but the shifted to North. This trend of North East wind shifting to North and back continued for 6 more days. We have now been sailing for 15 days, our position is N 18o56.3' W 130o53.8', we are 1343 nautical Miles away from Hilo Bay (half way there) and we have yet to encounter steady trade winds. Every day because of the wind direction changing we are either putting up our Genoa or replacing it with our working jib, reefing the main or shaking it out putting up the mizzen or taking it down. Sail changes can take up to an hour to execute if all 3sails need to be dealt with. This often removes an hour in someones “off time” and can be frustrating due simply for lack of rest. Through the entire trip we performed, on average, 3 sail changes a day for 27days.....it got old fast. We did get better by the 3d week in predicting changes and executing the sail trimmings. Our main reason for adjusting the sails was because of the complaints we heard from Auto (our wheel auto pilot). If the boat is unbalanced, as in there is some weather helm, you can hear the belt slipping in Auto or he starts screaming that he cant keep his course. So as to not upset Auto we spent time making the boat balanced so he would be happy and not cause mutiny.

We decided after we left Cabo to use our fuel to motor sail down to the location where the trade winds are located versus saving the fuel for the 500 nm east of Hawaii that had no wind (we saw this on passageweather.com before we left.) Thus by Day 11 we had used up the fuel allocated to get to the trades and that was our first 24 hours of sailing since leaving the continent. The rest of the fuel onboard was allocated to charging our batteries and for getting into port.

Days 11 to 15 the wind continued to shift from North to North East, the swell was increasing from the North. On Day 14 (18o58.3' N,130o27.7'W, Heading 270oTrue) we saw wind from the North East at 25 Knots and the swell was confused with a 10-13 foot swell from the North East and cresting. This was very uncomfortable and lasted for 24 hours until finally not sleeping made us head 260 True, so that the swell could be on our quarter and maybe we could get some sleep (it was still hard to sleep). On Day 16 (also May 16th) the wind was 20 knots from the North East and the swell was 8 ft from the North East.The last 72 hours with the rough swell and wind had made Auto unhappy. Day 16 Justin prepared Auto for a make shift surgery. We rapidly removed him from the helm as I took over and justin opened him up. He found 3 fractures associated with where the screws held Auto onto the wheel. Justin used some resistol epoxy putty to repair the fractures and Auto woke from the anesthesia back on the wheel and he was 100%!
By the 17th the wind was down to 10-15 kts from the North East and the swell was 3-5 ft.....finally we could get some sleep, we were in the TRADES!

From Cabo to the Trades, we saw dolphins (900 nautical miles from Baja!), Boobies (don't know if they were blue footed boobies), and I saw some whales the second day after we left Cabo (I think most have already migrated north to NA to feed). We saw one tanker, actually Justin was on watch and failed to see it, I came on deck and noticed it right away. On day 8 Justin turned on the water pump, heard it pumping and no water came out of the kitchen tap. He investigated and noticed that a piece of the carbon filter had broken off and he had just pumped 5 Gallons of water into the bilge. 2 things with this story 1) fast thinking on Justins part meant that we didn't pump 20 Gallons into the bilge (I would have stood there and decided that the tank was empty) and 2) good thing we keep the water pump off when we are not using it as we could have inadvertently pumped 100 Gallons into the bilge.


600 miles and still no trades


Justin looking for trade winds